ONE MAN SHOW

The first time I found out about Singaporean menswear label, evenodd, was at our Men's Fashion Week 2011. Running solo for three years, the man behind the a cult following is self-taught designer, Samuel Wong.  He graduated from Lasalle College of the Arts with a degree in fashion communication besides being a stylist and photographer. Wong is certainly a helluva multi-tasker!

Let's begin with his secondary logo for his brand shown above, Wong uses our closest connection to clothes - needless - and places it as a cross to explain the contrast of his design aesthetics: black vs white. He is one of the few local designers who dare to create a signature logo to go along with his designs. I like how subtle it is and it speaks certainly evenodd.



How does he do it? Wong didn't go through any formal design training at all. So naturally, he doesn't work with mood boards every season but finds an element that inspires him, and at the same time, creates a continuation from his previous collection. For Spring 2013, Wong was attracted to a particular photograph of a type of yarn and begun his manipulation, turning it into printed pieces that flew off the racks not only locally but internationally as well - via instagram! One of his shirts (below, left) went viral on the social network and the rest was history. Wong has his fair share of female shoppers too! #instagramftw

Besides creating his own prints, Wong is widely known for his black and white staples. He explained, 'evenodd is minimal, clean and edgy', and hopes to change the way people dress in Singapore, 'They dress too preppy.' His use of the stark contrast between black and white draws greater attention to his placement designs and technical manipulation of the conventional shirts such as the famous cropped top (a similar version can be found below in white) which was featured in Hypebeast's NYFW coverage here. Go SG designers!



You can imagine how much coverage evenodd had after its feature. But no no.. Wong ain't gonna reproduce them. That's not how he works. Wong limits the quantity to only 30 pieces per design and no matter how crazy they get, face it guys, there is NO REPEAT, NO MASS PRODUCTION. A bold decision indeed and one carefully thought of to keep evenodd a niche label even though it's positioned towards fast fashion instead of super highend luxury. With an affordable price range of S$63-249, Why not wait for the next collection and be one of the lucky 30 sporting another interesting design? 

Wong uses fabrics that are made in Singapore and his entire production is also based in Singapore. He considers himself really lucky to be able to save on excessive production costs overseas. 'Since I was a kid, my parents will tailor clothes for me. I have a very close relationship with the tailor and she offered to produce my designs.' Talking about connections. 'Made in SG' goods, you have my support!



Wong gave me a sneak peek to what's in store this May. He chanced upon these cute round paillettes that can be easily ironed on and decided to explore all kinds of embellishments with it. Can't wait to see his end products!

Evenodd will be showing at the PARCO next NEXT show this Audi Fashion Festival where you can buy all the designs on the spot. So get ready!


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Here are the five facts about Wong, exclusively for yours truly:

1. Wong made his career change from a communicator to a designer is just one day.

2. Wong thinks that he has a 欠扁 (qian bian) face meaning a face which is annoying and deserves a good spanking. (Personally, I don't think so!) 

3. Wong has a habit of cutting his rice grains into halves before eating. 

4. Both work and play are equally important to Wong. 

5. Wong's favourite food is wanton mee, a.k.a. wonton noodles. 
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Find out more about my insight into other Singaporean designers here. 

BROKEN UNBROKEN

Getting Wow-ed and Omg-ed at the latest collections of the four major fashion weeks is like a semiannual routine for all of us. But one the other side of the globe, back in Singapore, a particular designer label is  stirring up fashion chaos. 

Womenswear label, koonhor is founded by Singaporeans Koon Lim and Catrine Thé in 2009. (Okay, I may be three years late but better late than never!) Their Fall Winter 2012 collection saw the strength of women embracing the immediate present but still acknowledging the past. The broken mirrors represent the individual pieces of memories and experiences, and are put together - like a reunion of all things positive. The economy may be bad, but fashion always portrays the opposite, like what Koon said, "We want to show that fashion is still going very strong."

Looking at the prints themselves got me sucked into koonhor's beauty of imperfection. The mirror shards scattered on the floor may seem to be an act of violence but from another point of view, their irregular lines and reflected lights is utterly mesmerising. After carefully placed together, another shape is formed - just like crystallised chandeliers. 

A variety of fabrics - leather, stretch viscose-blend, virgin wool, bonded technical fabrics, poplin, crepe silk and more - are pieced together in a way that is well-balanced. Most importantly, the end product, especially the outerwear is extremely lightweight and comfortable (I've tried them on myself and didn't want to take them off!) and a staple for fall. 

Details, details and details are the ever-understated part of fashion. koonhor has every piece of the collection produced in Milan to ensure the high quality of craftsmanship. And yes, the finishing of every garment is precise. Let's zoom in to the sporty three-piece look below, in addition to the extra flap detailing on the sides of the top, the skirt has no side seams (they are slightly behind) so that it is more flattering to the hips and yes, "it gives you an ass." And did I mention that both the top and skirt are made of foamed neoprene, a.k.a fabric to make wetsuits? It certainly adds depth to the design with its unique wrinkled texture.

Another take on neoprene is this white design. The two zippers allows you to create a collar and also convert the top to a vest. Depending on your height, it can even be worn as a dress. 

 

This season saw the launch of koonhor's accessories and bags line, ranging from silk scarves to belts, clutches, totes and sling bags. I was particularly intrigued by the use of stingray skin in the collection. Not only the texture is fresh, the exotic skin has an interesting feature: follow the colour gradient to the part where it is the lightest, you can see a slight bulge - that's top-middle part of the stingray. Again, details are key. This bulge is position as the center of focus of the design, just like the belt, it is placed at the end its end where it is most visible. Only available in limited sizes, the skin has to be hand-stitched and that adds an extra detailing. 

koonhor truly understands the woman's body and knows exactly what flatters her shape. The slightest detailing actually makes the greatest difference and this is what a lot of us are missing when it comes to shopping.

Mass market brands may be hot in Singapore with countless international brands opening up stores. What emerging local designers need to set themselves apart is "to be molded the right way. They have a voice and they stay true to themselves. But the problem lies in consulting, and they need to be properly guided to set up a fashion business. We worked for five to six years in design houses, and found out it works and how cruel the industry is. You have to meet the right people."

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Here are the five facts about Koon and Catrine, exclusively for VW.:

1. Koon needs two cups of coffee a day while Catrine only drinks plain black tea.

2. Both Koon and Catrine are real maniacs when it comes to fit and constructions.

3. Koon's style icon is Alain Delon while Catrine's is Serge Gainsbourg.

4. Koon never gets enough of well-tailored shirts and striped tees are Catrine's style-saver.

5. Koon likes women who are intellectuals and private at the same time.
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Pardon my hiatus, I've recently embarked on a new career and will let you know when the time is right!

Patchwork Perfect.

Over the past few years, I've noticed an influx of designer hopefuls vying for a slice of Singapore's fashion cake. With such a small serving, there's obviously not enough for everyone let alone the icing. But Audrey, the winner of Star Creation 2010, enjoys her sweet ending having landed an assistant designer stint for home-grown label Raoul. 

Audrey is wearing one of the key looks from her capsule collection, 'Amalgamation'. It's amazing how she fuses four different textures - wool, leather, organza and polyester - perfectly together without one outshining the other. The streamlined cut of the dress and rectangular shapes of the patchwork allow us to really appreciate the simplicity of various fabric textures. Audrey then tops it off with a unique gold-tipped collar true to her personal style.

What else do you need other than clean accessories to complete the entire look?  Raoul's silver sling bag and Jeffrey Campbell's maroon tassel loafers. C'est tout!

So who's gonna get the share of the cake this year? Check out the sketches of Audi Star Creation 2012's 12 finalists here. 

Stud With Me.

Studs. These metal pieces that come in various sizes and shapes have settled on every piece of my accessories but never on my clothes. But when I saw this pair of studded jenas by local designer label ELOHIM by Sabrina Goh, I decided to give it a go. Available in two colours, beige and blue, the studs are perfectly sized - not too big and not too small - while the surrounding fringe adds a subtle texture to the design. 

Shades, New China Opticians; Top, Mango; Pants, ELOHIM by Sabrina Goh; Belt, Peninsula Shopping Centre; Bracelet, Swarovski Crystal; Silver Cuff, Chomel; Flexible Ring, a retail cart from The Cathay; Square Rings, Tuleste Market; Pumps, Nordstrom.

Time for some fashion face-off. It's a loss cause since me ain't no sample size but I want your opinion anyway. So which M wears it better - model or me?

Leading Lady.

Heading the movement to promote Asia's emerging talents to the world is BLUEPRINT 2012 tradeshow's Project Director, Tracy Phillips. Here she is at the Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX) press conference, wearing a silk organza dress by Singapore's up-and-coming womenswear label, PAULINE.NING. The mixture of curves and straight lines against a light pale canvas are extremely flattering and modern. Tracey tops off her look with a pair of stunning wedges from none other than shoe-guru Nicholas Kirkwood. 

Five facts you ought to know about BLUEPRINT 2012:

1) It is a four-day event consisting of two parts: 17 - 18 May (tradeshow for invited trade and media guests) and 19 - 20 May (open to public for sale of limited edition, sample and seasonal designs)

2) This year's edition will be held at Suntec Singapore International Convention and Exhibition Centre   (location on map)

3) BLUEPRINT tradeshow is the only fashion tradeshow in Asia that presents Pre-Spring 2013 collections

4) 40% of the 100 emerging designer labels are from Singapore while the rest are from Hong Kong, Manila, Berlin, Seoul and more

5) An extension of Spain's fashion tradeshow, The Brandery Asia, debuts with a lineup of contemporary fashion brands from all over the world

Go mark your calendars now!

Ritual Revisited.

Say hello to one of the most versatile pieces in my wardrobe - Sleeveless Drape Jacket from local label, young&restless's Autumn Winter 2010 collection, Ritual. Besides wearing it as a jacket (which creates an über dramatic effect getting caught in the wind), it can be easily turned into a dress by adding a belt (which also creates an über dramatic effect getting caught in the wind but less) and here's the proof, my once in a lifetime ELLE.com Fashion Week moment (also on my Facebook page)! I am still exploring more ways to wear it, most probably as a maxi skirt or pants, maybe?

Hat, New York City; Drape jacket worn as dress, young&restless; Belt, m)phosis; Cuff, Chomel; Bracelets, Old Navy; Ring, Depression; Oxford heels, Tuleste Market.

One Last Breathe.

Yes, I know. Viona, where have you been?! Have you forgotten about your blog because of your last crazy shopping week in NYC and another two weeks of 'No Internet' trip to spend quality time with your family in Melbourne? Well.. No, of course I have not forgotten about my blog and especially my readers, but I am still human you know? I am not an obssessive hardcore blogger who spends his/her time at home all day taking outfit photos, going for events and taking more photos, and getting people to take a lot more photos of themselves... At least not when I get to travel so much. Okay, let's get done with some serious fashion talk right now!

I resonate with Bloodbuzz's latest collection a lot. The title itself, Drowning in Dreams, caught my attention immediately while the campaign images with their perfect use of prints, laces, drapes and all things flowy intrigued me even more. I was indeed drowning in dreams when I was in NYC. (Let's not go back there just yet!).

With a fashion designing background from London, designer, Kimberly K Wong sure knows how to bring her experience to her advantage. She mixes the two Es, Elegance & Edge impeccably, not forgetting the importance of the wearability of her designs. 

I am a big fan of all things fluid (check out my play with the wind here). So the Carousel Circle Dress and Black Burning Heart Top below are perfect when the cool breeze blows and when you make any form of movement. 

What makes Kimberly's work stand out from most of the up-and-coming designers lies in her fresh take on streamlined silhouettes, clean, simple and chic. The Sun Showers Dress and High Voltage Skirt below both play with geometry in such a flattering way even for petite girls. It's time for show off those sexy calves. J'adore!

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Here are the five facts about Kimberly, exclusively for VW.:

1. Kimberly is a book worm. Her parents bought her her first book and thereafter, she spends a huge portion of her life with drown in a book. Through her childhood and growing years, while her other friends got grounded from television or going out, she got her books confiscated.

2. She is by no means a photographer, but apparently, She'd be willing to die for what seems like a good picture in her head.

3. Her favourite cities are London, New York and Tokyo. Right now, Morocco, Turkey, Greece and Vietnam sit at the top of her wanderlust wish list. 

4. Her friends would describe her as eccentric, quirky and she is learning to "embrace the weirdness".

5. She loves Bloodbuzz. It's like her baby. But if this wasn't her life, she'd like to be dabbling in writing for an indie-zine or curating a boutique of quirky labels from around the world.

6. This is an exclusive addition by moi. Kimberly is also an avid reader of VW.! (Yay!)

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Bloodbuzz's collections are available at their E-store here.